Summit Lake Vineyards: Key Facts
- 21 acres Zinfandel, Cabernet, and
Petite Syrah vineyards, orchards and gardens.
- Located at 2,300 feet above the valley
floor.
- A simple, hand crafted winery. A
relaxed environment.
- A charming country farmhouse built in
the 1880’s, surrounded by colorful gardens.
- An ancient English Walnut tree shades
you while you sip on the patio.
- One on one tasting with the owners and
winemakers.
- A Zinfandel Port vintage unlike any
wine you’ve ever tasted.
- Bring your favorite chocolate, fine
cigar or a picnic.
Napa Valley Howell Mountain Power Zinfandels.
Stop at Summit Lake Vineyards for a barrel tasting, tour and visit
with the Brakesmans.
Bob and Sue Brakesman purchased the 21 acre Carlo
Farazzi Ranch on Howell Mountain in 1971 with a dream of ownership and
a passion to make a world class wine. Twenty-five years later, the
dream and the passion are an on-going reality. Known for their
commitment to produce award winning Zinfandels and their hospitable
down to earth style, I was eager to visit this winery.
The HISTORY
The old 20-30 acre Farazzi vineyard was planted in
1917. A portion of this historic vineyard was purchased by the
Brakesman's to establish Summit Lake Vineyards, and another portion
was purchased by Robert Lamborn to establish Lamborn Family Vineyards.
If the Brakesmans had known they would have to fight rattlesnakes,
poison oak and bears for their Zinfandel grapes, they might have
reconsidered their ambitions.
But the varmints and brush were nothing compared to
the rocks; a fresh crop every year, rising magically out of the
ground, asking to be picked up and hauled away- Clearing the property
took some doing - about three years worth. But in the process, they
became so connected with the pride of their accomplishments, that only
one choice could be made, produce wine of outstanding quality and
character. And this they have accomplished,
By 1975, Bob and Sue had augmented the existing
pre-prohibition Zinfandel vines with an additional 11 acres of
Zinfandel and two of Cabernet Sauvignon. In 1985, Bob designed and
built their handsome wood frame winery. They then became Bonded Winery
5255. Summit Lake Vineyards is primarily a Zinfandel winery (200 cases
of Cabernet Sauvignon sold only at vineyards). "The quality of that
old Zin is so special," Sue explains, "that we devote our precious
acreage to it rather than push yet another chardonnay into the
marketplace." When they released their first vintage, a ] 978
Zinfandel, it sold out in eight days- They have since received many
awards including the coveted "Double Gold" medal at the 1988
California State Fair.
Bob Brakesman serves as the winery wine maker. He
graduated from the Engineering program at San Jose State University.
During his time at San Jose State University in the 1960s. The
Mirrasou's of Mirrasou Winery were neighbors of Bob and Sue. Peter
Mirrasou took Bob under his wings and taught him how to make wine. Bob
experimented with his first vintages making the wine from local grapes
in garbage cans in his kitchen. He established a passion for gnarly
big red wines- After considering life in a corporate environment and
after a short jaunt to South America, Bob and Sue picked Howell
Mountain to buy a remote, affordable and abandoned piece of properly.
They embarked on a frontier type lifestyle, and became a moving force
in reestablishing production of premier Howell Mountain wines. Indeed,
the Brakesmans were instrumental in creating the Napa Valley
Sub-Appellation of Howell Mountain.
Bob worked at Freemark Abbey as a
cellar foreman in the mid 70s while planting Summit Lake Vineyards.
Jerry Luper, their wine maker, became his tutor in the mechanics of
wine making. During these years ,Bob also worked for local companies
installing drip irrigation, bench grafting at nurseries, and selling
wine equipment- By gaining knowledge and experience from the locals
and reinvesting their earnings back into the winery, Bob and Sue have
gained independence by doing it all themselves
Twenty years later the
Brakesman's are still living in the original house built in 1893.
Their three children, Heather, Brian and Daniel, have been active in
the running of the winery and the care of the vineyards. They welcome
visitors into their home to taste their spectacular wines as if they
are part of the family (but be sure to call us first).
Sue and her ranch dogs bounded
out of their historic home to greet me and invite me in for a wine
tasting at their farmhouse table constructed from planks of an old
redwood fermentation tank- Sue gave me a quick house tour, where we
stopped to look at an 1876 newspaper fragment still attached to a
redwood plank in her living room. This remnant is from the original
construction of the Farazzi homestead. Settling in comfortably, we
began to chat about the wines, while tasting their 1989 Zinfandel.
Sue recounted the many guests
that they have invited into their home to taste their wines and
stressed that it is a one-on-one experience where they truly can learn
about wine in a personalized fashion without any "attitude". Their
summer rose garden, patio, 100 year old oak trees and views over the
Pope Valley are there to host a visitor's picnic in the Spring, Summer
and Fall, it also has a barbecue. Be prepared to share your lunch with
the farm animals. When it comes to advice on wine, Sue and Bob
simultaneously advised "Just trust your palate,"
The VINEYARD
In 1982, a coalition of growers
including the Brakesmans and the Lamborns (of Lamborn Family
Vineyards), successfully petitioned the Federal Government for
recognition of Howell Mountain as California's first sub-appellation,
Summit Lake Vineyard sits atop the mountain at 2200
feet, surrounded by pine forests and commands spectacular views of
Napa Valley to the south and Pope Valley to the north. The vineyard is
established over red Aiken clay, three feet deep throughout the whole
property This is in contrast to the southeast side of Howell Mountain
where whiter, tufa-based volcanic soil is found. Since Zinfandel is
known to adopt a soil's characteristics, the soil differences are an
integral pan to it's distinctive flavor structure. The vines in Howell
Mountain tend to bud three weeks later than the valley floor but are
harvested earlier, due to the inversion layer which results in warmer
nights and even ripening of the vines. This creates higher acids and
sugar levels. Bob feels that this unique combination of soil and
weather imparts the complex flavor to his wines,
Originally, there were eight
acres of old Zinfandel vines which survived from the historic Farazzi
vineyard, to which the Brakesmans planted an additional 11 acres.
Later, they added 2 acres of Chardonnay and 2 acres of Cabernet
Sauvignon on advise that these were the best and most profitable
grapes for Napa Valley. But their heart was with Zinfandel, and when a
severe frost took an entire year's growth from the Chardonnay vines,
they decided to graft them over to their old clone of Zinfandel. They
now have 13 acres Zinfandel and 2 acres Cabernet Sauvignon (the
precious 200 cases of Cabernet Sauvignon are only sold at the winery).
The WINERY
Bob suggested we take a walk over
to the Winery. Bob and Sue are responsible for the making and aging of
their spectacular Zinfandel. Their current production level is 1500
cases but hope to increase it up to 2200 cases. Bob proudly pointed
out his 10 new American oak barrels among his aging wines Bob said
that they hand harvest the grapes to lug boxes which go to the winery
for crushing and fermenting in traditional methods. The wine is aged
2-3 years in French and American oak barrels. Bob feels American oak
and Zinfandel is a great combination. He bottles the wine at the
winery utilizing a sterile filtering process after which it is aged an
additional six months before release.
The WINE
Summit Lake started to release
their estate wine in 1985. They do not advertise and have a loyal
following for their production. Bob's criteria for his Zinfandel is
simple, he produces a wine in the style he likes- He enters wine in
only 2-3 tastings a year, including the Orange County Fair where the
1992 Zinfandel won a gold medal.
Wine SELECTIONS
1993
Bob says that this wine is still young and tight,
and should be aged another 2-3 years to soften the tannins
1994
Sue can't wait to put this wine on the market.
People are calling to buy futures.
1995
This wine has big, big fruit with great bouquet- It
has so much fruit it is chewy, according to Sue. When I asked how long
I could age this wine. Sue felt it could age for 25 years. Although it
will be nicely drinkable in a few.
The wine is full bodied with concentrated varietal
flavors in black pepper, cherries, dark chocolate and cinnamon. Summit
Lake Vineyard's Zinfandel has been described as "near perfect" by the
San Francisco Examiner.
Library WINES
The Brakesman's have put aside an
impressive selection of library wines, starting with their 1988
vintage. These wines are available only through the winery, It may be
possible to taste them for a fee and by appointment They are sold on a
per bottle basis only and quantities are extremely limited.
The library collection includes:
1988
When this wine was released,
Robert Parker described it as "having a deep ruby/purple color, big
briery, spicy, peppery, mineral scented nose, medium to full body,
"gobs" of clean berry fruit, and a crisp moderately tannic finish."
Sue states that today the tannins have softened, the flavors have
married and the flora! and fruit tastes are more forward, with a less
peppery overtone
1989
Robert Parker describes this wine
as "having good color, plenty of pepper, berry fruit, and a moderately
long finish" According to Sue, this wine has "gobs of fruit" with a
pronounced forward raspberry flavor with bittersweet chocolate and
cracked pepper.
1990
Robert Parker says that," This wine displays
explosive ripe fruit, a seductive, penetrating fragrance of black
fruits, spices and wood with a long finish." It was a 1990 Gold Medal
winner and was rated 92 by the Wine Spectator.
1991
This wine is slightly lighter in
style with the characteristic berry and chocolate flavors.
1992
An Orange County Gold Medal
winner with tremendous aging potential and powerful fruit flavors.
1994
Emily Kestrel Cabernet Sauvignon.
200 cases, only sold through the winery, and by appointment only for
visits to the winery.
By Wine Country Living
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Summit Lake Vineyards & Winery. The New Breed of
California Winemaker.
"Attend the "Summit" on Top of Howell By Mitch Marron
As defined in Webster's dictionary, summit is
defined as the following:
1. The highest point or part; the top.
2. The highest level or degree that can be
attained,
Clearly, when taking the winding, majestic drive up
Howell Mountain to Summit Lake, the pinnacle is not only reaching the
highest point of the mountain, but rather, having the rare privilege
to sample the regal, rich wine making style of father and son, Bob and
Brian Brakesman. In 1971, Bob gave Sue, his wife, the deed to the
property as a birthday present. The property was previously owned by
Mario Frazzi, who planted his vineyard in the early 1900's when Howell
Mountain was famous for its immense, unique quality of its red grapes,
especially Zinfandel. Such venerable produces such as Louis Martini
and Charles Krug imported Farazzi's grapes, many times paying top
dollar for the superior quality. Following prohibition, the vineyard
languished for 30 years.
Bob and Sue worked the best part of three years
nurturing the vineyard into shape. While the vineyard was maturing.
Bob who got his engineering degree at UC Berkeley apprenticed under
Jerry Luper at Freemark Abbey, In 1985, the winery was constructed in
the tradition of a barn rising. Everyone close to the Brakeman's
helped in the birth of Winery No. 5255. At the end of the day Sue
would always have refreshments and great food for everyone who helped.
As a result, the Ranch has become a gathering place for friends and
family. Let me assure you that as I arrived on October 20th, Sue had a
great big smile on her face. There workforce, which is comprised of
mostly family, were in the midst of "Crush". Yet, Sue, Bob and Brian
took time to tour me around the intimate confines of the 20 acre
ranch. The same understated class that Sue and Bob exude is exactly
what one will find upon the consumption of Summit Lakes Wines.
Brian, who recently obtained his degree in
agricultural engineering, is very much hands on; has learned the
business first hand from his dad- Brian, like his dad, is soft spoken,
and has a zest to continue to produce the incredible quality his dad
began almost thirty years ago.
The vineyard is augmented with 11 acres of
Zinfandel and 5 cares of Cabernet Sauvignon, Their cabernet, named
after granddaughter Emily Kestrel is a fruit forward bomb with
outstanding balance with wonderful accents of currants, soft tannins
and will continue to age through the next decade. Less than 300 cases
of this precious "nectar" are annually available through the winery.
The San Francisco Examiner describes
Summit Lake Zinfandel as "near perfect". The wine is full bodied with
concentrated flavors of cherry, chocolate and cinnamon, The wine,
according to Russ Bridenbaugh, (Wines & Vines), recently wrote, "there
wines age into works of art" The Wine Enthusiast recently gave the
1999 Zinfandel a 92 rating describing it as "marvelously rich and
dense, with well-ripened fruit and sweet, desert-like flavors
suggesting cherry liquor-filled candies.
However, the sleeper of them all is
Clair Riley Late Harvest Zinfandel Port, named after their second
grandchild. When Clair was told she was going to have a wine named
after her like her big sister, she exclaimed, Pirate Wine! With that
the wine was to be called Pirated Reserve. A wine of immense
proportion, with a velvety texture, with hints of blackberry and
chocolate that puts one into a total state of euphoria,
As to the future, 2002 appears to be one on the
best vintages with great ripeness and great sugars, according to Bob
and Brian. Should anyone want to hold a "Summit on the Lake," Howell
Mountain and The Brakeman's is the place you want to be. Cheers to
Sue, Bob, Brian and the entire Brakesman family!!!
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Article by Brian
Patterson
1 would never have visited Summit Lake Vineyards in
the summer of '91 if not for my friend Wade from Richmond VA. Wade
heard that I was coming to Napa Valley to attend Madeline Kamman's
School for American Chefs, and being a wine-geek himself, he
personalized a triptych of "must-dos. As a postscript he wrote that in
return for his wisdom, I had to drive to Angwin 10 say hello to Bob
and Sue Brakesman, and tell Sue that Wade sent me to "separate irises
and drink some of the best damn Zin in the valley"
Nervous in the hours before my first meeting with
Madeline and my fellow students, I decided to kill a little time and
cross my favor to Wade off my list. I called up Summit Lake and
explained about Wade and the irises. Bob Brakesman said he didn't have
any idea what I was talking about, but that I was welcome to come up
and taste some wine. 1 spent my first hour in Napa Valley winding up
Deer Park Road toward Angwin, stopping at each switch-back to be
dazzled by the view of the valley 1 wondered, was it all! like this?
The pavement ended at a small, crooked sign that read "Brakesman" I
drove on, and as my car kicked up a Martian colored haze that hung
over rows of gnarled vines, each bearing broad dusty leaves and heavy
clusters of deep purple fruit, I knew I was toying with destiny,
First came The dogs. They offered up Frisbees and
the looks on their faces implored, "so are you gonna toss, or are you
just here to drink wine?"" Then is cherubic lady appeared, brimming
with gaiety and laughter. She shooed away the dogs and welcomed me to
Summit Lake. She reminded me of the Bombadils in the "Fellowship of
the Ring".
She knew all about Wade and the irises, and she
said"any friend of Wade's had boiler be put to work; but first the
lour, and some wine." For me, the highlight of the tour was the cool,
musty barrel room, each barrel seemed to have its own personality. The
highlight for Bob and Sue was the new labeling machine that Bob had
reconditioned. 1 was then invited onto the patio to meet the
one-winged falcon, watch the bug zapper, and drink Zinfandel/
As I was munching on some agreeably moldy cheese,
prattling on about nothing in particular and quaffing some of the
finest Zinfandel in the Valley, Heather, the beautiful love-child
daughter (in thirty years of living together, Bob and Sue never
formally married) appeared at the table and sallied us into a pear
picking frenzy, claiming she could get 50 cents a the organic markets
in the valley. Once I was perched halfway up a pear tree, swaying from
the Zinfandel, gently shaking pears down onto Bob and Heather, and
reaching for the perfectly ripe pears in the upper branches, I was
struck: this will certainly be one of those moments that will flash
before my eyes when I die. A bond was consummated in that moment, and
I was late for my dinner with Madeline
In the two glorious weeks that I lived in Napa
Valley I visited Summit Lake Vineyards often, each time with the
intention of hoarding Zinfandel, and each time climbing back down
Howell Mountain too silly to drive let alone buy wine. On one visit I
brought a couple of my misfit fellow students from the SFAC for
dinner. We brought some chewy dates, slinky cheese, school baked
bread, and pine-mil pale, Sue made mushu pork chimichangas,
sterilizing her cutting board with garlic We had a vertical tasting
which soon became 11 horizontal tasting. Bob has us climb up on the
big vat full of late harvest Zinfandel In between bites of dates and
slurps of late harvest straight from the barrel-siphon, the misfit
students quarreled over weather this wine lasted more like chocolate
covered cherries or Stilton cheese soaked in port. Back in the dining
room, Bob gave us a rear narrative about flying single engine planes
in Baja, Kismet filled the cool mountain air.
It became more and more difficult to leave for many
reasons Finally Bob and Sue asked us to carve our initials in the
dining room table The table was made from the lop slats of an ancient,
giant wine tank. As 1 carved my initials with my buck knife, I
realized a friendship was being forged New friendships
notwithstanding, I still did not manage to buy any wine that night.
On my last full day in the valley, I resolved
myself to make a special trip up to Summit Lake for the express
purpose of buying wine. Just before sunset, Sue tripped over her son's
mountain bike with a half-empty bottle of '84 reserve in her skirt
pocket Cursing and laughing, she got up and in a flurry of Styrofoam
and strapping tape she packed a care-package case of Summit Lake
Zinfandel! to go. She hugged me and said "me casa is su casa". As the
ruby red Napa sun sank into the Martian dust of Howell Mountain, 1
inhaled the last of my glass of the '84 reserve and the cumulative
effects of all my visits to Summit Lake overcame me, 1 knew in that
moment I was very close to heaven, and never once had to separate
irises.
Brian Patterson
Brian Patterson is now chef of
Neadom House in Washington D.C. and teaches at his own culinary
school Summit Lake Vineyards is their "official" Zinfandel.
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